It is impossible to visit Europe without visiting an endless variety of churches, museums, clock towers and ruins. They are completely fascinating but equally fatiguing. Terms such as Too Many Bloody Churches (TMBC), Another Bloody Belltower (ABB) etc., soon come to mind.
Visiting Rome, the centre of the Catholic Universe, was not going to be any different, although one could argue that the Catholics have more gold!
Today we visited the Vatican Museum, Sistine Chapel and St. Peter’s Basilica.
Let me say clearly that you do not have to be Catholic or even believe in god to be absolutely gobsmacked by a visit to these places. In the same way that you don’t have to be an engineer to marvel at the scale of construction, an artist to appreciate the painstaking work in the thousands of paintings and frescos or a stonemason to ponder the effort in myriad statuary. Let alone the incredible age of everything you come across.
Rome Metro – You keep on giving
Ah, Rome Metro you are full of surprises! We had an early “skip the line” ticket for the Vatican Museum and so found ourselves tackling the Metro at peak hour on a Monday morning. Having given up trying to buy a cost-effective ticket we lined up to buy our single trip tickets, blissfully unaware of the storm to come and not seeing the stream of people going past us and down the escalators to the platform. Arriving on the platform it was busy, really busy. When the train arrived, it was already packed but following the lead from the locals we herded ourselves aboard. Can’t imagine what it would be like on a summer afternoon but personal hygiene was thankfully in check as we already thought we were jammed in like sardines. We were wrong. At the next station, thinking our carriage was already full, Megan and I were slightly alarmed to see another full platform all seemingly intent on boarding our carriage. If we were slightly alarmed, the kids were almost terrified and unable to move with the ebbing crowd they were in danger of getting crushed. I had one of those, “Daddy” moments, when nothing else matters but the kids and firmly planted myself as barrier – a technique that actually worked! Megan and I nearly burst out laughing at the absurdity of the situation and it was then that I took the time to look around at the nearby passengers. Not an angry face anywhere, in fact most seemed bemused – this was just normal and we all made it through, although it was definitely a good feeling to get off at our stop.
The Vatican Museum
Even arriving early, in the off-season, at the Vatican Museum, the lines to get in were already stretching more than 200 metres. Thanks again to the excellent planning by Megan we had slightly more expensive “skip the line” tickets which enabled us to sail straight through. A quick pass through security and we were on our way.
Climbing the continuous spiral ramp, we had brief moments passing models and memorabilia from all manner of African, Asian and Papua New Guinean villages, tribes etc. I wondered if this represented all of the missionary “conquests” over the centuries, but I’d promised to keep my religious views in check on the day so we passed without comment.
Working our way through the museum we took in the many artworks, religious icons, collections etc. I was most impressed by the hall of maps. Gigantic painted representations of all of Italy. Being a bit of a map nerd I could have spent hours in here alone and yet there was so much more to see.
Statues, shrines, paintings and ceiling that seemed to come alive. We moved as quickly as possible to the Sistine Chapel as we were being stalked by a large tour group and wanted to make sure we had some room to view the chapel. No words can really do justice to the collection of so many significant artefacts. With the kids in tow I’m certain that we spent only a fraction of the time needed to fully appreciate everything on display.
I will leave you with one last thought though. Frank (that’s Pope Francis for those of you less familiar with His Holiness) has a pretty sweet merchandising deal going on. It seemed that every 3rd or 4th hallway in the museum had a mini-shop. Have to pay for all that gold somehow! P.S. We bought a beautiful Christmas Decoration that we look forward to having on our tree next Christmas.
The Sistine Chapel
Oh my lord! Wait I don’t have a lord but that’s the best I can come up with as this place left me speechless. (Special Note: Megan is worried that my irreverence means I am now on the No Vatican list – just like the no fly list only I have to confess my sins if I ever want to visit again.)
I had read about the Sistine Chapel a little and of course knew of Michelangelo’s work in painting the ceiling. Nothing I had read, no documentary I had watched though, can capture the magnificence of standing in the centre of the chapel, bombarded by incredible images everywhere you look. Not only is the detail incredible, the perfect perspective lends a 3-dimensional depth that only enhances the quality of the experience. I have no idea how long I stood there examining each part of the ceiling and walls (painted by other artists I found out), but when I finally looked around Megan and the kids had found a seat off to one side. The least religious in our party and yet I wondered if I was the most in awe.
I was shaken from my reverie by the stern voice of a very serious Police Officer directing us to be silent. A priest entered the pulpit and proceeded to give blessing and say a prayer. I do not know how often this happens, but in that place at that time we all felt very lucky to be part of it. I made my own decisions about god, religion and my Catholicism in my middle-teens but for many in the crowd that morning I suspect that it was a life-affirming moment that I will never be able to understand. Very, very special.
(No photos were allowed in the Sistine Chapel but definitely one to look up on the Interwebs)
Saint Peter’s Basilica
After a snack and drink in the Vatican Museum Cafeteria (we were too early for the full service with no less than 4 separate cuisine choices – told you this was a business) we headed out for a stroll around to Saint Peter’s Basilica.
We knew we were close as we battled our way through swarms (ok, maybe not swarms) of people trying to sell us Pope Figurines, Basilica Snowglobes and Crosses of every possible form. I presume they get enough sales at least to make a living, but seriously – who buys this stuff?
We joined the incredibly long line. Security screening took ages so the line went for hundreds of metres. Enough time for me to wander off for some photos, whistle along to the Christmas Carols playing at the massive nativity scene in the square and for the kids to chuckle at the misfortune of anyone silly enough to get too near the fountain on a very windy day – more than a few unscheduled showers were occurring.
Time passed quickly and before we knew it we were there. This place is massive. I cannot even conceive of how such a large structure was erected in the period. I’m guessing that Australian Unions had nothing to do with it, otherwise I’m sure they’d either still be building or they’d have bankrupted the Church.
I’m struggling to describe what it is like inside the basilica as it is like every church you’ve ever been in multiplied in every way – physical size, marble work, artistry, tapestry, you name it. Amelia described it as “inspiring”. When I asked what she meant she replied …
It inspires you to think that humans can do anything!
Gigantic columns rise above floors laid with the most intricate marble designs, soaring to heights that seem unimaginable. The space is vast – I wonder how many can be seated for mass? My words and even the photos below do not really do justice. The basilica is priceless to Catholics but I cannot imagine what it is worth in monetary terms – it certainly feels as though this is something we could never create in the modern era.
Pantheon
Trevi Fountain
